Eternal Beauty

Cosmetic Wunderkind Thomas de Kluyver Reworks Four Decades of Makeup with Chinese Model Li Wei

Dissecting each decade from the 1960s to the 1990s, London-based makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver and filmmaker George Harvey give an elegant take on the phenomenon of the makeup tutorial video. Starring Li Wei, winner of the NSR Model Look Competition in China, the short offers tips to mastering everything from a 1960s Jane Birkin-esque eyeliner flick to Jerry Hall-inspired brow-high eye shadow over a soundtrack from trippy London band Desert Mountain Tribe. Hailing from Perth, Australia, De Kluyver has so far assisted makeup artist Ayami Nishimura, worked on a career-making Dazed & Confused cover with Nicola Formichetti, and helped create Florence Welch’s ethereal beauty looks after a fortuitous Glastonbury meeting. “My favorite decade for makeup is the 90s,” he muses. “That’s when I was a kid and my older brother was into grunge music: Courtney Love, Shirley Manson, and Kim Gordon are my icons.”

Head to our Facebook page for Thomas de Kluyver's 1980s and 1990s tutorials.

Look One: 1960s

Beauty: NARS Black Orchid eye pencil; Bobbi Brown gel eyeliner; Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate intensity 1; MAC eyebrows in Fling; Dior lipstick in Nude Grege.
Clothing: JW Anderson dress.

Look Two: 1970s

Beauty: Elizabeth Arden smoky eyes pencil in chocolate; NARS portobello eyeshadow duo; YSL pure chromatics quad eyeshadow no. 12; Lancôme Éclat Lumiere; Illamasqua pure pigment in beguile; Kevyn Aucoin sculpting powder; Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick in Gabrielle; MAC Clear Lipglass.
Clothing: Carven polo neck.

Look Three: 1980s
MAC Feline eye pencil; Nars Lili Marlene creme eyeshadow; MAC SS14 trends eye palette; MAC eyebrow in Stud; NARS lipstick in Manhattan.
Clothing: Pleats Please by Issey Miyake.

Look Four: 1990s
Laura Mercier Secret brightening powder; MAC Nightmoth lip pencil; Tom Ford lipstick in black orchid; Shu Uemura colorless loose powder; MAC Blush in Strada.
Clothing: Lucas Nascimento dress.

Skin, all looks: Diorskin Nude foundation; BECCA compact concealer; Clinique airbrush concealer; Diorskin Loose powder.

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  • On Replay
    On Replay

    The Future Catwalk

    Mirte Maas Walks an Infinite Runway in Barnaby Roper's New Interactive Story

    Your keystrokes guide Mirte Maas’ epic strides through a series of psychedelic landscapes in Barnaby Roper’s user-controlled fashion experience. As the Dutch model marches, new digital sound, image and effects create 26 distinct and immersive environments, from a high-definition forest and a space-age desert landscape to kaleidoscopic moving collages. Each one corresponds to its own letter on your laptop or desktop keyboard, while mobile device users can enjoy the journey in a specially tailored short film. The innovative piece marks a new level of complexity for the New Yorkbased director, whose previous experiment on NOWNESS saw model Iris Strubegger multiply on screen as visitors’ commands combined to form a dark visual symphony. To create the mesmerizingly addictive Mirte, Future Catwalk, Roper collaborated with Tristan Bechet to compose a hypnotic, driving score that morphs to keep time to Maas’ motion. The model kept a steady pace on a treadmill for the better part of two shooting days, wearing boots by Rick Owens paired with pieces from Givenchy and Christopher Kane by stylist Tony Irvine. “I like the playfulness and the air of discovery; I like that the viewer has the choice and that I am not dictating to them how they should view it,” says Roper. “Most of all, I like the possibilities of where interactivity could and will go in the future.”


    Time spent shooting: 

    2 days.

    Time spent on treadmill: 

    10 hours.


    Number of outfit changes: 



    Time spent in post-production: 

    2 months.

    Number of programmers: 


    Lines of code: 



    Keyboard letter with fewest steps: 

    N (1.8).

    Keyboard letter with most steps: 

    S (hundreds).

    Total steps visible (excluding “S”): 


    Credits: 1. Leather dress by Givenchy, skirt by Ann Demeulemeester, top and boots by Rick Owens, cape by Araks; 2. Coat, dress and boots by Rick Owens; 3. Leather dress by Givenchy, hooded top by Ann Demeulemeester; 4. Hat and mask by Rick Owens; 5. Top, dress and boots by Rick Owens; 6. Dress and boots by Rick Owens
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    A Slow-mo Session with Sam McKnight

    Internationally renowned hairstylist Sam McKnight teases out the unseen calm in two seconds of a thrashing blonde mane in this slow-motion film shot by photographer Matthew Donaldson. As his model daughter Lily spins 360 degrees, her hair buffeted by four wind machines, Donaldson stretches two seconds into two hypnotic minutes, capturing every exquisite movement at 1,000 frames per second. In a world where technology is increasingly maligned for encouraging us to hide from reality, there is a welcome irony here: Using the super-high definition Phantom Gold HD—a camera initially developed for monitoring missile flights—Donaldson distills a hyper-real tranquility. The film is also a paean to Ara Gallant, one of the great session hairdressers of the 1960s and the inventor of the “flying hair” technique. “I love using wind on hair, and I love anything to do with the outdoors—like windy beaches and mountains,” McKnight says. Not that nature is required for coveted bouncy locks. “The two girls who could move their hair without any wind machines were Linda Evangelista and Yasmin Le Bon,” he reminisces. “They were legendary for the ability to shake their hair even slightly and it could fill two pages.” Working with make-up artist Val Garland and a suitably dreamy soundtrack by Zero 7, McKnight and Donaldson have created a film with a poignant message: Life may be ephemeral and precious—but isn’t it beautiful?
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