Pierre Debusschere Kicks Off Our Weekend Reveal of the High-Tech Dutch Designer’s Guest Edition
“The radar of my inspirations is wide,” says fashion designer Iris van Herpen as she lends her ultramodern aesthetic to the latest edition of A Magazine Curated By, whose cover shoot by photographer and director Pierre Debusschere sees fellow Belgian model Hanne Gaby Odiele reclined dressed in warped, colored latex and a 3D printed dress. The contributor-driven publication asks a different designer to shape the content of each installment, from its inaugural issue with the enigmatic Maison Martin Margiela, to milliner Stephen Jones, whose issue earned the publication a nomination at the forthcoming 2014 Design Awards. Shot by Debusschere, who recently directed one of pop star Beyoncé’s barrage of music videos that accompanied her recent album release, and styled by Dazed & Confused Fashion Director Robbie Spencer, the editorial features digitally manipulated collections from the issue’s curator alongside haute couture by Christian Dior, Viktor & Rolf and past collaborator Maison Martin Margiela. “Most of the people that were interviewed I already know quite well,” Van Herpen says of the subjects included in the collaborative publication. “But the results revealed unexpected knowledge and thoughts for me.”
What were your influences and inspirations for the issue?
Iris van Herpen: Science, art, philosophy, dance, biology, technology and daily life; invisible things like radiation, electricity, energy, magnetism, matter. All of the artists, architects, professors, scientists and dancers who are in the issue are all inspirations to me also, not only their work, but their way of working, their way of thinking.
Were you honored to have been asked to curate this issue?
IVH: Yes, I am a big admirer of some of the designers that have previously curated the magazine and it made me understand their world much better. It has been valuable for me to read them, and it is famtastic to have been given the chance to show my own concepts and inspirations more deeply.
You’re about to show your collection at Paris Fashion Week, what should we expect?
IVH: During the last few months I have been inspired by the absurdity of bio-piracy, and some questions that arise from this. Questions about the ownership and invention of life and the future of living property that arise from bio-piracy, not the answers themselves, have been the inspiration for my new collection.
Our weekend reveal continues tomorrow with Vincent van de Wijngaard's shoot featuring Tilda Swinton and Saskia de Brauw.
Look one: dresses and capes by Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture.
Look two: 3D-printed latex dress by Iris van Herpen.
Look three: latex blazer, T-shirt and jeans with boots and beaded mask, all Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal.
Look four: ruffled cotton cape dress by Holly Penfold.
Look five: faux fur top and skirt by Ryan LO, melted plastic skirt and top by Matthew Bovan.
Look six: hat by Maiko Takeda.
The British Model and Rising Horsewoman Takes On the World of Eventing
With her new raven-hued cut, model-of-the-moment Edie Campbell reveals her principal off-runway passion in this short film by director Linda Brownlee. Horsey life wasn’t always an obvious direction for the London-born and raised model, who graduated with a first class degree in History of Art at London’s Courtauld Institute of Art before scooping Model-of-the-Year at the British Fashion Awards. But while spending weekends in the countryside as a child Campbell caught the bug, joined the Pony Club and began to focus on eventing, the sport that requires horse and rider to tackle the three separate disciplines of dressage, cross-country and show jumping. Although the Viva London-represented 23-year-old has tried her hand at other equestrian sports, most notably triumphing in the Charity Ladies’ race at Goodwood in 2011, eventing is where her heart lies. She keeps two horses, Dolly and the aptly named Armani, in Warwickshire and commutes out of London to train. “I don’t expect to win,” she says on balancing her competing life with a career in front of the camera, which includes campaigns for Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen, as well as appearing on the cover of British, German and Italian Vogue. “In this sport, even in the lower levels, you are competing against people on Olympic teams. Standards are high, so I compete against myself and try to improve each time I go out.”
A Surreal Take on the Age-Old Dilemma of What to Wear
Model Molly Smith finds herself trapped in a never-ending outfit change, wrapped up in various pieces from Miu Miu, Meadham Kirchhoff and Alexander McQueen in today’s kinetic fashion film shot by Joshua Stocker and styled by NOWNESS regular, Agata Belcen. “I wanted to create a film that felt seamless, without the cuts interfering with the experience,” explains Stocker of his first fashion film, set to music by London-based indie pop act, Scanners. “Collaborating with a stylist, we worked out how each piece integrated into the narrative, whether it is a dress that falls to the floor, or a skirt which is pulled up to reveal a new outfit.” The award-winning director is a graduate from London’s Chelsea College of Art & Design and is noted for his visual effects-laden work, including music promos for Skream and Gem Club, alongside a 3D data art film with Google Creative Lab’s Aaron Koblin.
Additional credits: Makeup by Celia Burton at CLM. Hair by Yoshitaka Miyazaki at Untitled Artists London.