The Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief and Photographer Launch a New Series with EDITION Hotels
Since they met in 1995, Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani and British photographer Miles Aldridge have been creating vivid, surreal set-pieces for the most experimental and provocative of the magazine’s editions. The ongoing alliance between these two fashion creatives is explored in “Vision,” the first episode of a new series exploring the concept of collaboration. It’s directed by NOWNESS regular Johnnie Shand Kydd in association with EDITION Hotels. Since rising to the helm of the lauded magazine in 1988, Sozzani was instrumental in heralding the era of the supermodel in the early 1990s, while championing the careers of pioneering fashion photographers Steven Meisel, Bruce Weber and Paolo Roversi. Aldridge’s work is in the permanent collections of the National Portrait Gallery and the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Today he sees the launch of a major home town retrospective at Somerset House, entitled I Only Want You to Love Me, coinciding with a tome of the same name published by Rizzoli. Another London showing of photography, Short Breaths, will be unveiled on July 12 at the Brancolini Grimaldi gallery. “I remember seeing her at one of the runway shows and thinking she looked like a beautiful character from a Fellini or a Visconti film,” recalls Aldridge of Sozzani. “Then a few months later I was having tea with her. I think she wanted me to move into a new world and Vogue Italia have that trust in me, even if I’m playing with slightly disturbing, disquieting, uncertain things.”
Each film in the On Collaboration series has been produced in partnership with EDITION Hotels, a new project between Ian Schrager and Marriott Hotels. The London EDITION opens in Autumn 2013.
Director Brennan Stasiewicz Captures Fashion’s Enigma At Home and On Display
Documentary filmmaker Brennan Stasiewicz infiltrates the cosseted world of Daphne Guinness in Daphne’s Window. Featuring intimate footage of the icon at her Fifth Avenue apartment, the short follows the eccentric fashion patron and socialite as she prepares for her recent installation in the windows of Barneys New York. The storefront showcased her collection of pieces by designer Lee Alexander McQueen and a selection from the archive of fashion editor Isabella Blow, which Guinness purchased in its entirety last year. The display culminated in a performance art piece in which Guinness dressed for the Met ball in one of the flagship’s windows, modeling a lilac feathered gown designed by McQueen’s Sarah Burton. “She appears to me as someone always in a window,” says Stasiewicz. “Someone you can approach and see, but you remain on the other side.” This year brings a multitude of projects for the heiress: her sculptural armored glove collaboration with jeweler Shaun Leane (pictured in today’s film) will be exhibited by Jay Jopling in a private viewing in London later this month; and in September a retrospective at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology will pay homage to her style. “Daphne is someone to take pleasure in, and in many ways, someone who incites moments of wonder,” says Stasiewicz.
Malcolm Venville's Crusade to Pose a Single Question to the Illustrious Designer at His Alpine Exhibition
There aren’t many people who you’d endure several flights, two long train journeys, exceedingly early wake-up calls and a soggy McDonald’s hamburger dinner to spend one minute with—but that’s how powerful the pull of fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld can be. And that pilgrimage is exactly what director Malcolm Venville undertook for a brief encounter with the Chanel and Fendi designer, artist, photographer and one-man cultural phenomenon in St. Moritz in February, where the polymath was revealing an exhibition at Galerie Gmurzynska. The series featured Lagerfeld’s new set of fire etchings on glass—based on portraits of his muses such as Theophilus London, Freja Beha Erichsen and Aymeline Valade—and evolved the Kaiser’s extraordinary photographic legacy, which has yielded not only a multitude of ad campaigns, but also groundbreaking books like The Metamorphosis of an American and The Beauty of Violence, both of which distilled the model-to-muse relationship, focusing respectively on male faces Brad Koenig and Baptiste Giabiconi. Navigating the alpine VIP frenzy, filmmaker Venville came straight up against the unrealistic expectations of the Kaiser’s media and creative schedule. Hence he delivered just one potent question, appealing to Lagerfeld’s savoir faire. “To borrow from Hamlet,” says Venville, “brevity is the soul of wit, and he couldn’t be more interesting in that respect.” The director would know, having helmed the films 44 Inch Chest starring John Hurt and Ray Winstone and Henry’s Crime with Keanu Reeves. “I felt there was a lot of power in his answer,” he says of Lagerfeld. “It’s all about the artistic process being intuitive and spontaneous.”