The Supermodel-Turned-Editor Honors Leading Ladies of the Fashion World
A cast of industry notables including Stella McCartney, Isabel Marant and Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy are captured by photographers Paola Kudacki and Mary McCartney in this excerpt from 25 magazine, a new biannual from supermodel Anja Rubik. Known for gracing the pages of Vogue Paris, Self Service and Numéro as well as fronting campaigns for the likes of Gucci and Balmain, Rubik cast her eye towards the publishing world after coming across vintage issues of erotic 70s title Viva. “I wanted to create something feminine but strong-minded,” explains the Polish beauty, who has devoted the latest issue to inimitable women in fashion, art and design. “These women are not only incredibly strong and creative but they really stand behind their goals and dreams.” Also enlisting the likes of Marina Abramović and Theophilus London, Rubik’s second issue will debut during the upcoming New York Fashion Week. “It’s a project that’s growing very organically. And I hope people respond to it.” We sat down with the runway regular to talk sensuality and the mother of all editors.
What guides the magazine visually?
Anja Rubik: I was going through all these old magazines and I realized that a sense of sensuality and erotica has completely disappeared. Right now most people’s approach is either prudish or harsh—vulgar, in a way. I created the logo with David Lipman—it’s very sensual and forms the shape of a body, the bottom and the breasts. The whole first issue was shot by female photographers, showing their approach to sensuality and erotica and what that means to them.
What is it about these women that inspires you?
AR: There aren’t that many female designers out there so I wanted to know more about them—how they approach fashion, how they approach life, how they feel about sex and how it important it is in their work.
What’s it like to get behind the scenes after being in front of the camera for so long?
AR: I feel very much at home actually. I realized how much I learned throughout the years by being on shoots, just observing and speaking to stylist and photographer friends of mine.
Who are some of the editors that you look up to?
AR: Carine Roitfeld was incredible. What she did with Vogue Paris was something amazing and very sexual. Of course there’s Anna Wintour. As much as we all fear her she’s incredible at what she does. She understands the business inside out. Then there’s also LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand. But my favorite is Diana Vreeland—there is no one like her. She created something really beautiful and inspiring while at the same time taking a lot of chances. She is the ultimate number one.
What’s on your agenda for the upcoming fashion weeks?
AR: I’m going to start with New York, where we’re launching the issue on February 10th during New York Fashion Week. We’re going do a very intimate dinner and open the doors to a lot of cool performers. It’ll be really dark and intimate, in keeping with the vision of 25. Then I’ll be off to London to do Tom Ford and Gucci in Milan.
The Photographer and Director Sheds Light On Crazy Horse Dancers
The demanding rehearsals of dancers at famed Paris nightclub Crazy Horse are glimpsed in this impressionistic short by Mary McCartney. Taken from her new series, Devoted, the film is part of an ongoing exploration of the inner worlds of people who dedicate their bodies to their vocations. London-born McCartney, the sister of fashion designer Stella and daughter of musician Paul, has shot for titles including Harper’s Bazaar and Interview and has had solo exhibitions at the National Portrait Gallery and the Natural History Museum in London. For this personal project she has so far looked at the transformation of a Japanese geisha and The Royal Ballet corps, and plans to continue the investigation with athletes such as boxers and jockeys. Of her Parisian dancer subjects, McCartney says: “It’s that dedication and the intensity of their schedule. They are the crème de la crème—the Crazy Horse dancer is the pinnacle.”
The Prolific Publisher Shares His Favorite Spreads in a Graphic Short
Madrid-based magazine wunderkind Luis Venegas unveils his enviable collection of glossy back-issues and collectible periodicals as he launches the latest edition of his cult art title and labor of love, Fanzine137. The 33-year-old creative director, editor and independent publisher spent a year on the project, all the while working on the pioneering “transversal” Candy, as well as the colorful EY! Magateen, devoted to all things young, male and Spanish. Venegas has come a long way since the first issue of Fanzine137 in 2004, funded by a single Dior Homme ad courtesy of a sympathetic Hedi Slimane; fast-forward to 2012 and Venegas’s impressive client list includes collaborations with brands like Loewe, and publications such as GQ Style, Acne Paper and BUTT. Following his black-and-white-themed issue featuring contributions from Christian Lacroix, Bruce Weber, Ryan McGinley and Terry Richardson, the current Fanzine137 celebrates the treasured editions in Venegas' own collection. “I've always wanted to do a tribute to my favorite magazines and the many wonderful creative people who work in them,” he explains. “It took some weeks to photograph and retouch them to make them look as real and fabulous as they deserve.” Here Venegas opens up about his passion for print.
How difficult was it to select your favorite magazine pages?
My personal collection of magazines contains more than 10,000 issues, and selecting only 137 double-page spreads wasn’t easy. I wanted to show my favorites but also create an exciting narrative. Crediting everyone involved has also been an exhaustive process––that's my tribute to all of the publications included.
If you were stranded on a desert island and could only have one magazine, what would it be?
It would be the April 1965 issue of American Harper's Bazaar, with the famous winking hologram cover of Jean Shrimpton. It's a very modern issue edited by Richard Avedon and art directed by the legendary Ruth Ansel, a dear friend of mine. It appeared more than 47 years ago but everything inside looks so contemporary, refined and exciting!
Are there any magazines you’re still searching for?
Right now I'm obsessed with acquiring as many 1970s issues of Warhol's Interview as possible. I have around 30, but the search never ends!
Your hands are tattooed with “HARD” and “WORK”––is this the personal philosophy that allows you to do so much?
Yes, it is! I read somewhere that the secret to success is the simple addition of hard work and good luck, so I tattooed one part on my hands, which I use constantly, and the other on my feet, so they can carry me to a lucky place.