Secret Cities: Singapore

Model Chen Yu explores the ultra-modern skyscrapers, Chinese Baroque pavilions and pastel European townhouses in her temporary hometown of Singapore along with photographer and creative director Shiraz Randeria. Hotly tipped to become the next big thing in Chinese fashion, the fresh-faced muse took on the palm-tree lined city state to develop her portfolio, which already includes shoots for Vogue and Elle China. Randeria’s images capture her enjoying the dynamic mix of cultures—predominantly English, Malay, Chinese and Indian—that inform Singapore’s architecture, cuisine and curious local lingo, Singlish. In the hybrid parlance “Basket!” is an exclamation of frustration, while referring to someone as “zai” means they know how to keep cool under pressure. “Singapore is a surprisingly relaxed city,” says Randeria. “Even though it’s rich and business-like, don’t go expecting the incessant global bustle of Central Hong Kong.” Here Chen shares her discoveries beneath the many roofs of the vibrant “Sin City” of the Southeast.

Ku De Ta
This DJ bar and restaurant sits on the 57th floor SkyPark at the top of the Marina Bay Sands. Singapore’s best place to go for a sundowner—they have great Asian-influenced martinis—and watching the city lights come on.
1 Bayfront Avenue, Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, Singapore 018971

Rasa Spa, Siloso Beach
Where I go for Thémaé tea facials and massages. It’s also right by the beach so I can go for a swim. I came here after last year’s fantastic ZoukOut music festival —a great relaxation session after an all-night party.
Shangri-La Hotel, 101 Siloso Road, Sentosa Island, Singapore 098970

Haji Lane
A small and colorful street full of modern independent fashion boutiques and Egyptian bars, this is in the middle of the Kampong Glam neighborhood, with the large golden-topped Sultan Mosque at one end. It’s a fun place to shop and browse, especially at K.I.N. at  51 Haji Lane, which stocks interesting local labels and fashion magazines. 
Haji Lane, Singapore 189244

Geylang Road Durians
Although it’s known for being the red light district, it’s also where you can get the best durian fruit—the creamy varieties you can get here in Singapore are the best I’ve ever had. I can easily eat two in a go. They range from S$2 to S$28 each and don’t stink at all—maybe just a feint whiff of marker pen. Eat them with mangosteens, they complement each other really well. I can recommend one large fruit stand, which also do fresh coconuts to drink.
Fruit stand on the corner of Geylang Road, Lorong 19

Lau Pa Sat
Unlike other Asian cities, Singapore has banned street food stands, so instead there are many quality controlled hawker centers. Forget restaurants—this is where to find real local Peranakan dishes—a fusion of Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisines. Lau Pa Sat is the city’s historic and beautiful Victorian wet market, now renovated with food stalls. My favorite are the amazing skewered king prawns outside on the side stands—numbers S7 and S8. It’s called Best Satay. 
18 Raffles Quay, Singapore 048582

Actually
One of Singapore’s best boutiques has two stores near each other, both close to Haji Lane. It’s a friendly place, and great for international street brands such as BOY, plus accessories and collections from local designers.
29A Seah Street, Singapore  188385 and 118A Arab Street, Singapore 199813

Gillman Barracks
A 10-minute taxi ride from the city center and you’re in these whitewashed army barracks, seemingly in the middle of the jungle. It opened in September as the city’s new contemporary art hub and there are galleries from around the world, although mainly from Asia. It’s a little quiet at the moment, but more galleries are moving in this month.
9 Lock Road, Singapore 10893

New Majestic Hotel
This boutique hotel sits in the middle of historic Chinatown down a quiet lane. The full glass front is always open to the street during the day—the lobby has a great pop-up bookstore and an elegant mismatch of furniture. Upstairs, each room is different, many done up by local designers. It’s chilled out, friendly and also a walkable distance to Club Street, the upmarket nightlife and bar area of Chinatown.
31 Bukit Pasoh Road, Singapore 089845