Tux on the Beach

Viktor & Rolf—they of the matching spectacles and deadpan demeanor—got into a surprisingly easy, beach-combing mood for their spring 2011 men's collection, which was accompanied by an acoustic performance by La Roux. A far cry from the glaring, poppy prints of past seasons, this collection echoed the colors of sand and earth, with tailoring and jersey pieces in beige marl, brown, camel and grey. Throughout there was a softening of the suited silhouette via details borrowed from sportswear:  trousers came with toggled drawstring waists, loafers with thick rubber soles, and blazers (in a woven waffle textile) with bomber-like ribbed cuffs. The trenchcoats seemed more like dressing gowns, with loose shawl collars and belts knotted at the waist. For evening, the duo pulled out a couple of characteristically glitzy tricks, namely a dinner jacket with intricately sequined lapels. But even a tuxedo seemed to be on vacation—it was exquisitely tailored, of course, but ended abruptly above the knee in silk side-striped wool shorts.