The John Dory Oyster Bar's Wine Director Recommends the Best Whites for Bivalves
There is hardly a better complement for briny bivalves than a chilled glass of crisp white wine, be it still or sparkling. Carla Rzeszewski, wine director at The John Dory Oyster Bar and The Breslin Bar & Dining Room, both in NYC's Ace Hotel, suggests the perfect mates to this season’s gastronomic guest of honor.
Marc Ollivier, Clos de Briords Muscadet, 2009, Loire Valley, France
With very clear notes of lemon-lime and sea salt brine, this muscadet (from one of the best producers in the Pays de la Loire region) is made for oysters. A classic pairing.
Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina, 2009, Spain
Grown on cliffs hanging over the ocean, these grapes lap up the sea air and the mineral content of the crushed shellfish soil; lean and mean, they’re an excellent transmitter of terroir. Beautiful with those opinionated East Coast oysters.
Bisol, Jeio Rose Prosecco, NV, Veneto, Italy
This little sparkler is drier than most regular prosecco. On the nose it’s playful red apple, mild peach and a touch of delicate floral notes, but on the palate it's all tight, chiseled, tart fruit. Awesome with the creamy, sweet minerality of the West Coast oyster.
Stephane Tissot, Crémant du Jura, NV, France
A refreshingly offbeat take on champagne, made with the same grapes from a much higher elevation. Nutty notes and a mildly toasty nose make it the perfect stand-in for champagne at a fraction of the price.
Marc Hebrart, Rive Gauche-Rive Droite Grand Cru Brut, 2004, France
The luxurious option: what a bottle. A leader in the popular “grower champagne” trend, Hebrart is making these wild, raw, mineral-laden champagnes with unabashed heart and soul. This one drinks like a wine, offering hints of savory mushroom, a strong mineral spine and a fleshed out body of warm spice—the result of a touch of oak.