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April 13, 2013

Secret Cities: Beijing

Beijing Design Week Director Beatrice Leanza Casts a Sharp Eye On The Chinese Capital

From a concept store nestled in an imperial courtyard to al fresco Sichuanese dining, newly appointed director of Beijing Design Week (BDW) Beatrice Leanza offers up a specialist’s guide to her city. A resident for the past decade, Leanza’s intimate knowledge spans its dusty hutongs (alleys), crumbling 600-year-old Dashilar shopping street and the 798 art district, home to expansive galleries and exhibition spaces. Her fascination with Chinese contemporary art began while studying in Italy, and arriving in Beijing in 2002 she worked at the China Art Archives and Warehouse, founded by the renegade Ai Weiwei. “China was coming out of the 1990s, the underground years,” Leanza says. “It was the moment of the institutionalization of the artistic system, the birth of museums and galleries.” She went on to found BAO Atelier, a global think tank. After curating an exhibition of Chinese, Japanese and Korean art collective Xijing Men at 2011’s Venice Biennale and consulting for institutions such as MoMA New York and London’s Royal College of Art, stepping up to the role of director at BDW feels organic. Beijing, Leanza says, is the cultural “heart and soul of the Chinese people. It’s here that most of the prominent artistic movements or practices take shape—it has this all-encompassing nature that no other city in China has.”

Wuhao
Located in a hidden courtyard house once home to the last empress and tucked away in the Mao’er hutong, Wuhao is filled with hand-picked furniture, jewelry, and clothing by Asian and international creators. In the central building an original mirror from the early 20th century and a traditional Kang (day bed) set the scene for seasonal collections inspired by Wu Xing, the five Chinese elements of water, metal, fire, earth and wood. 
5 Mao’er Hutong, Dongcheng District

Lost & Found
Setting up shop in the historical hutong area around The Confucian and Lama temples, Lost & Found houses items of a truly local vintage, with Chinese chairs, tables, cabinets, office desks, screens, lights and even clothing that revive an Old World simplicity. It's also a functioning atelier, where craftsmen's studios and workshops can be visited by appointment.
57 Guozijian Street, Dongcheng District

The Temple Hotel
Built during the Ming Dynasty as an imperial printing house for Buddhist sutras, The Temple Hotel later became the residence of one of the most important religious authorities of the Qing Emperors. Located north of the Forbidden City, the newly restored complex and its surrounding pavilions and rooms are complemented by an installation by artist James Turrell and works by design titan Ingo Maurer.
23 Shatan North Street, Dongcheng District

Transit restaurant
The best Sichuanese restaurant in Beijing sits on a half-hidden corner in the pedestrian area of Sanlitun Village North, an open air mecca for luxury and fashion seekers. 
N4-36, Third Floor, The Village North, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District

Xian Bar
For those who have longed for an alternative to Sanlitun Village’s congested bar scene, live music lounge and whiskey bar Xian (named after a legendary ‘wine immortal’ whose sculptural portrait guards over the adjacent river) is just few minutes away from 798 Art District. 
22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District

Ubi Gallery
Nestled in the bustling, 600-year-old area of Dashilar on the southern side of Tiananmen Square, this atelier and gallery features limited edition pieces by international contemporary jewelry and ceramics creators, with interiors and display furniture from Local Design Studio featuring Dashila(b). By the time BDW comes around in September, Ubi will be housed in a fully restored tea house dating from the late 19th century. 
9 Zhujia Hutong, Dashilar, Xicheng District

Fei Space
One of the earliest concept stores in Beijing, Fei Space sits next to the international galleries of the city's well-trodden Art District. Mostly devoted to fashion, clothing and accessories by local designers, the venue also shows select international creatives alongside rare vintage pieces, as well as containing an exhibition space devoted to young Chinese talent.
Second Floor, B01, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District, Chaoyang District

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Havana Good Time

Illustrious Photographer Michael Dweck Infiltrates Cuba’s Subversive Art Scene

Celebrated American photographer Michael Dweck’s uninhibited, previously unpublished pictures reveal Cuba’s passionate artistic community, thriving under a regime that limits creative freedom and handicaps those who openly oppose the communist party’s doctrine. Dweck’s new book, Habana Libre, reveals a secretive collective of friends based in the country's capital, making work that treads a fine line between conceptual and subversive, yet is not seen as rebellious by the authorities. Described by Dweck as a “contradictory creative class in an apparently classless society,” the group lives a vibrant bohemian lifestyle, meeting covertly to exchange ideas. Having left a career in advertising in 2002, Dweck came to prominence with his images of laid-back surf kids featured in his book The End: Montauk, N.Y. We caught up with the Brooklyn native to discuss socialism and seduction.

This glamorous lifestyle seems at odds with the image we have of what it’s like to live in Cuba.
These people travel freely, have nice cars, big studios and a lot of assistants. They sell their artworks in other countries; they show at Art Basel, some have work in MoMA and the Tate. The government allows it even though Cuba is supposed to be classless. The regime doesn’t admit that this creative class exists, but I think they also realize that without culture you don’t have a society.

Did you experience any problems being an American?
At first it was impossible to get permission to shoot. I met with everybody I could, I sent more and more paperwork, filled out forms, got to know the Castro children and even asked them to help. Finally, I met the culture minister and eventually he told me actually there just wasn’t a visa for an American to do what I wanted to do. He gave me his business card and told me if anyone stopped me to show it to them and I would be okay. And I was. 

What was the image of Cuba you wanted to get across in the book?
Cuba is like a game. You get played with. Nothing is on the surface, it’s all code and everything is a subtext of something else. I wanted to show this secret life of the creative class, but the subtext is an allegorical narrative of seduction.

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Hotel Antumalal: Jungle Bookings

Photographer Jonathan de Villiers Ventures to Chile’s Modernist Rainforest Retreat

Juxtaposing the clean 1940s modernist architecture of the exclusive Hotel Antumalal with its lush, vibrant surroundings, photographer Jonathan de Villiers captures the enduring appeal of the tranquil South American haven and its local hot springs. “It's this backwoods Chilean take on Modernism,” says de Villiers of the hotel’s unique atmosphere. Built 61 years ago, with private gardens overlooking Lake Villarrica, the Antumalal is set just over a mile outside the city of Pucón and has hosted the upper echelons of European aristocracy throughout its lifetime, including Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. Surrounded by the contrasting temperate rainforest and snow-capped Andes mountains, the hotel offers outdoor activities such as rafting, kayaking and skiing, as well as visits to the active Villarrica volcano nearby. Designed by Chilean architect Jorge Elton, a student of Frank Lloyd Wright, the building and its interior décor has been lovingly overseen by the daughter of its original owners—any tired or worn out furniture or fittings are replaced with locally produced pieces exactly matching the originals to maintain the hotel's perfect 1940s homeliness.

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