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April 13, 2013

Secret Cities: Beijing

Beijing Design Week Director Beatrice Leanza Casts a Sharp Eye On The Chinese Capital

From a concept store nestled in an imperial courtyard to al fresco Sichuanese dining, newly appointed director of Beijing Design Week (BDW) Beatrice Leanza offers up a specialist’s guide to her city. A resident for the past decade, Leanza’s intimate knowledge spans its dusty hutongs (alleys), crumbling 600-year-old Dashilar shopping street and the 798 art district, home to expansive galleries and exhibition spaces. Her fascination with Chinese contemporary art began while studying in Italy, and arriving in Beijing in 2002 she worked at the China Art Archives and Warehouse, founded by the renegade Ai Weiwei. “China was coming out of the 1990s, the underground years,” Leanza says. “It was the moment of the institutionalization of the artistic system, the birth of museums and galleries.” She went on to found BAO Atelier, a global think tank. After curating an exhibition of Chinese, Japanese and Korean art collective Xijing Men at 2011’s Venice Biennale and consulting for institutions such as MoMA New York and London’s Royal College of Art, stepping up to the role of director at BDW feels organic. Beijing, Leanza says, is the cultural “heart and soul of the Chinese people. It’s here that most of the prominent artistic movements or practices take shape—it has this all-encompassing nature that no other city in China has.”

Wuhao
Located in a hidden courtyard house once home to the last empress and tucked away in the Mao’er hutong, Wuhao is filled with hand-picked furniture, jewelry, and clothing by Asian and international creators. In the central building an original mirror from the early 20th century and a traditional Kang (day bed) set the scene for seasonal collections inspired by Wu Xing, the five Chinese elements of water, metal, fire, earth and wood. 
5 Mao’er Hutong, Dongcheng District

Lost & Found
Setting up shop in the historical hutong area around The Confucian and Lama temples, Lost & Found houses items of a truly local vintage, with Chinese chairs, tables, cabinets, office desks, screens, lights and even clothing that revive an Old World simplicity. It's also a functioning atelier, where craftsmen's studios and workshops can be visited by appointment.
57 Guozijian Street, Dongcheng District

The Temple Hotel
Built during the Ming Dynasty as an imperial printing house for Buddhist sutras, The Temple Hotel later became the residence of one of the most important religious authorities of the Qing Emperors. Located north of the Forbidden City, the newly restored complex and its surrounding pavilions and rooms are complemented by an installation by artist James Turrell and works by design titan Ingo Maurer.
23 Shatan North Street, Dongcheng District

Transit restaurant
The best Sichuanese restaurant in Beijing sits on a half-hidden corner in the pedestrian area of Sanlitun Village North, an open air mecca for luxury and fashion seekers. 
N4-36, Third Floor, The Village North, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District

Xian Bar
For those who have longed for an alternative to Sanlitun Village’s congested bar scene, live music lounge and whiskey bar Xian (named after a legendary ‘wine immortal’ whose sculptural portrait guards over the adjacent river) is just few minutes away from 798 Art District. 
22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District

Ubi Gallery
Nestled in the bustling, 600-year-old area of Dashilar on the southern side of Tiananmen Square, this atelier and gallery features limited edition pieces by international contemporary jewelry and ceramics creators, with interiors and display furniture from Local Design Studio featuring Dashila(b). By the time BDW comes around in September, Ubi will be housed in a fully restored tea house dating from the late 19th century. 
9 Zhujia Hutong, Dashilar, Xicheng District

Fei Space
One of the earliest concept stores in Beijing, Fei Space sits next to the international galleries of the city's well-trodden Art District. Mostly devoted to fashion, clothing and accessories by local designers, the venue also shows select international creatives alongside rare vintage pieces, as well as containing an exhibition space devoted to young Chinese talent.
Second Floor, B01, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District, Chaoyang District

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Hotel Antumalal: Jungle Bookings

Photographer Jonathan de Villiers Ventures to Chile’s Modernist Rainforest Retreat

Juxtaposing the clean 1940s modernist architecture of the exclusive Hotel Antumalal with its lush, vibrant surroundings, photographer Jonathan de Villiers captures the enduring appeal of the tranquil South American haven and its local hot springs. “It's this backwoods Chilean take on Modernism,” says de Villiers of the hotel’s unique atmosphere. Built 61 years ago, with private gardens overlooking Lake Villarrica, the Antumalal is set just over a mile outside the city of Pucón and has hosted the upper echelons of European aristocracy throughout its lifetime, including Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. Surrounded by the contrasting temperate rainforest and snow-capped Andes mountains, the hotel offers outdoor activities such as rafting, kayaking and skiing, as well as visits to the active Villarrica volcano nearby. Designed by Chilean architect Jorge Elton, a student of Frank Lloyd Wright, the building and its interior décor has been lovingly overseen by the daughter of its original owners—any tired or worn out furniture or fittings are replaced with locally produced pieces exactly matching the originals to maintain the hotel's perfect 1940s homeliness.

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Spotlight

Secret Cities: Mexico City

Tequila Queen Bertha González' Modern Guide to the Cultural Mecca

As cofounder of artisan joven tequila brand Casa Dragones, Bertha González is the ideal ambassador for modern Mexico City: emphatically of-the-moment while embracing time-honored traditions. Fifteen years of industry experience has earned her the distinction of being the first woman certified as a Maestra Tequilera by the Academia Mexicana de Catadores de Tequila, but it’s González' status as a fixture on the cultural circuit that makes her the ultimate insider. A native of the Pedregal de San Angel neighborhood, the entrepreneur describes the city as one that is “in constant transformation,” whose revitalization in the last decade has been evident in a burgeoning art scene—producing talents including Gabriel Orozco and Miguel Calderón—and up-and-coming neighborhoods like the café-dotted Condesa and foodie enclave Polanco. “An enormous push by the creative citizens makes the city a coveted, must-explore cultural destination of any world traveler,” says González. We asked her to detail her ultimate tour, with photographs by Douglas Friedman.

Chic By Accident
Emmanuel Picault sources unique artifacts from all over Mexico in this interior gallery and store, which give you a wider understanding of the country’s incredible design heritage. The last item I bought here was a gorgeous 1960s cut-crystal ashtray.
Alvaro Obregon 49, Col. Roma Norte

Contramar
Friday is a good time to go to Contramar if you want to see and be seen. Everybody from Gabriel Orozco to the Mayor of the town is there, during the art fair especially, but the place is not pretentious. Remember it’s a lunch place only; you can’t go for dinner. My favorite thing on the menu is the tuna tostados. Sometimes, after my flight lands in Mexico City, I go straight there and hold my meetings in the restaurant because I crave it so much. 
Durango 200, Col. Roma Norte

Kurimanzutto Gallery
The gallery represents some of the most important Mexican artists but also some great international artists. Gabriel Orozco, Damian Ortega, Daniel Guzman and Dr Lakra all show there, as well as Rirkrit Tiravanija and Jimmie Durham, for example. 
Gob. Rafael Rebollar 94, Col. San Miguel Chapultepec

Dulce Patria
Martha Ortiz, the restaurant’s chef, has played a very important role in the new wave of Mexican cuisine; she is very poetic in her cooking, from the presentation to the history and complexity of the dishes, everything is spot on. Her ceviche is to die for and her tequila chaser sangritas are absolutely fantastic.
Anatole France 100, Col. Polanco

Galeria Daniel Liebsohn 
I discovered Daniel at a party, before I discovered his store; he is so elegant he can’t go unnoticed. In his gallery you find Mexican and European antiques mixed with Italian and American vintage furniture from the 20th century: you may see a 15th-century Flemish painting beside a lineal seat by Frank Kyle next to a 19th-century Napoleon III-style mirror. His house highlights his eye and the styles he combines.
Londres 161-49, Plaza del Ángel, Col.Juárez

Condesa DF
After touring the galleries in the Condesa neighborhood, stop by this hotel for a late afternoon drink: I would recommend the cucumber mezcal mojito made with mezcal blanco by Los Danzantes of Oaxaca. In spring, blooming jacaranda trees with stunning purple flowers surround the roof terrace.
Avenue Veracruz 102, Col. Condesa

M.N.Roy
Emmanuel Picault has also recently opened a new private club, M.N.Roy, named after the Indian revolutionary and founder of the communist parties in both Mexico and India. It’s mega cool and gorgeously designed; if you want to go for a drink or have a little dance, it’s somewhere you really have to visit.

Mérida 186, San Luis Potosi 

Museo Soumaya
My favorite piece in the collection is actually the museum itself: the architecture is beautiful. The Soumaya also has the largest collection of Rodin sculptures in Latin America. I would recommend a weekday afternoon when it is quietest.
Plaza Loreto, Avenida Revolución y Río Magdalena, Eje 10 sur, Col. Tizapán, San Angel


To get a taste of Casa Dragones, click here.

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