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April 13, 2013

Secret Cities: Beijing

Beijing Design Week Director Beatrice Leanza Casts a Sharp Eye On The Chinese Capital

From a concept store nestled in an imperial courtyard to al fresco Sichuanese dining, newly appointed director of Beijing Design Week (BDW) Beatrice Leanza offers up a specialist’s guide to her city. A resident for the past decade, Leanza’s intimate knowledge spans its dusty hutongs (alleys), crumbling 600-year-old Dashilar shopping street and the 798 art district, home to expansive galleries and exhibition spaces. Her fascination with Chinese contemporary art began while studying in Italy, and arriving in Beijing in 2002 she worked at the China Art Archives and Warehouse, founded by the renegade Ai Weiwei. “China was coming out of the 1990s, the underground years,” Leanza says. “It was the moment of the institutionalization of the artistic system, the birth of museums and galleries.” She went on to found BAO Atelier, a global think tank. After curating an exhibition of Chinese, Japanese and Korean art collective Xijing Men at 2011’s Venice Biennale and consulting for institutions such as MoMA New York and London’s Royal College of Art, stepping up to the role of director at BDW feels organic. Beijing, Leanza says, is the cultural “heart and soul of the Chinese people. It’s here that most of the prominent artistic movements or practices take shape—it has this all-encompassing nature that no other city in China has.”

Wuhao
Located in a hidden courtyard house once home to the last empress and tucked away in the Mao’er hutong, Wuhao is filled with hand-picked furniture, jewelry, and clothing by Asian and international creators. In the central building an original mirror from the early 20th century and a traditional Kang (day bed) set the scene for seasonal collections inspired by Wu Xing, the five Chinese elements of water, metal, fire, earth and wood. 
5 Mao’er Hutong, Dongcheng District

Lost & Found
Setting up shop in the historical hutong area around The Confucian and Lama temples, Lost & Found houses items of a truly local vintage, with Chinese chairs, tables, cabinets, office desks, screens, lights and even clothing that revive an Old World simplicity. It's also a functioning atelier, where craftsmen's studios and workshops can be visited by appointment.
57 Guozijian Street, Dongcheng District

The Temple Hotel
Built during the Ming Dynasty as an imperial printing house for Buddhist sutras, The Temple Hotel later became the residence of one of the most important religious authorities of the Qing Emperors. Located north of the Forbidden City, the newly restored complex and its surrounding pavilions and rooms are complemented by an installation by artist James Turrell and works by design titan Ingo Maurer.
23 Shatan North Street, Dongcheng District

Transit restaurant
The best Sichuanese restaurant in Beijing sits on a half-hidden corner in the pedestrian area of Sanlitun Village North, an open air mecca for luxury and fashion seekers. 
N4-36, Third Floor, The Village North, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District

Xian Bar
For those who have longed for an alternative to Sanlitun Village’s congested bar scene, live music lounge and whiskey bar Xian (named after a legendary ‘wine immortal’ whose sculptural portrait guards over the adjacent river) is just few minutes away from 798 Art District. 
22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District

Ubi Gallery
Nestled in the bustling, 600-year-old area of Dashilar on the southern side of Tiananmen Square, this atelier and gallery features limited edition pieces by international contemporary jewelry and ceramics creators, with interiors and display furniture from Local Design Studio featuring Dashila(b). By the time BDW comes around in September, Ubi will be housed in a fully restored tea house dating from the late 19th century. 
9 Zhujia Hutong, Dashilar, Xicheng District

Fei Space
One of the earliest concept stores in Beijing, Fei Space sits next to the international galleries of the city's well-trodden Art District. Mostly devoted to fashion, clothing and accessories by local designers, the venue also shows select international creatives alongside rare vintage pieces, as well as containing an exhibition space devoted to young Chinese talent.
Second Floor, B01, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District, Chaoyang District

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Spotlight

Your Secret Cities: Vancouver

Inventory Magazine Chief Ryan Willms Shares His List of the Seaport's Sights and Bites

To mark public voting for our travel photography competition, Your Secret Cities, photographer Jennilee Marigomen tours Vancouver, British Columbia, with Inventory founder and Editor-in-Chief Ryan Willms. With its dedicated team headquartered in the Canadian city’s historic Gastown district, Inventory has in recent years emerged as the last word on contemporary craftsmanship and understated chic. Championing heritage-focused brands such as Visvim, Margaret Howell, Engineered Garments and Yuketen with behind-the-scenes exclusives and interviews, the magazine highlights the authentic workmanship that goes into today’s classic menswear. “What really separates Inventory is the depth and integrity of the brand, to remain true to our tastes, aesthetic and beliefs,” explains Willms. “We've always just tried to make the magazine we would want to read. The same general rule applies to our retail.” After the success of his traditional and online publishing platforms, Willms established the Stockroom just a few meters from the Inventory office. Defined by industrial lighting, exposed brick and minimal décor—no hunting-cabin Americana in sight—the store offers a carefully selected range of outdoorsman-inspired brands alongside Inventory’s own collaborations with the likes of designer Mark McNairy, Viberg boots and Mt. Rainier Design. Here Willms shares his tips on where to find the Inventory attitude in Vancouver.

Nelson the Seagull
Since landing in May 2010, Nelson the Seagull has literally been fueling Inventory. Everyday we go here for coffee, lunch and tea. The people are friendly, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is just right. 
315 Carrall Street, Gastown, Vancouver, BC; Tel: 604-681-5776

Finch’s Tea House
Because it's a bit of a walk from our office, Finch's is often a special treat. With a great selection of sandwiches and homemade soups, it's definitely worth the trip from any part of town.
353 West Pender, at the corner of Homer, Vancouver, BC

Lee’s Donuts
Lee's has been making delicious donuts daily for nearly 30 years. It's a great place because they keep it classic and don't try to do new things for the sake of it. The old fashioned plain donut is always a good choice.
Granville Island Public Market, 1689 Johnston Street, Vancouver, BC, V6H 3R9; Tel: 604-666-5784

6 Acres
Six Acres is easy to miss during the day but when the curtain gets pulled up in the evening, the perfect sanctuary is revealed. Their selection of beers is complimented by a simple but interesting menu, making it the ideal place to retire after a long day at work.
203 Carrall Street, Vancouver, BC, V6B 2J2; Rel: 604-488-0110

The Sea Wall
The Sea Wall is arguably the most beautiful 10km run in the world. It's only minutes from downtown Vancouver and the trail around Stanley Park showcases almost all of the city's natural beauty. Perfect to walk, ride or run at any time of year.

The Belmont Barber Shop
The only place I get my hair cut. Owner and master barber Dustin Fishbone does a great job and runs a tight ship.
111 East Broadway, Vancouver, BC, V5T 1W1; Tel: 604-568-6238

Macleod’s Books
Described as "the last great bookshop," Macleod's have been in their current location since 1982 and have sold books for as little as a $1, and as much as $40,000. Visiting for the first time, you won't quite know where to start, so we'd recommend going with a few hours to spare.
455 West Pender Street, Vancouver, BC, V6B 1V2; Tel: 604-681-7654

Zulu Records
Zulu Records might be a little further afield, but their wide selection of new and used vinyl, and range of vintage stereo equipment, always make the trip a worthwhile one.
1972 West 4th Ave, Vancouver, BC, V6J 1M5; Tel: 604-738-3232

Super Champion
This bicycle shop opened around the same time I moved to Vancouver. From the beginning, I visited them for tune-ups, vintage parts and advice. The staff is extremely knowledgable and they usually have a good selection of vintage Italian components.
245 Main Street, Vancouver, BC; Tel: 604-689-3610

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Spotlight

Fabriken Furillen: Island Escapism


The Stunning Repurposed Architecture and Lunar Landscapes of Gotland’s Refined Resort



London-based photographer Peter Guenzel explores the sparse and calming atmosphere of former limestone refinery turned eco hotel, Fabriken Furillen. Stretching across 600 acres of an old quarry site on the island of Gotland off the southeastern coast of Sweden, the minimalist retreat is set amid the area’s untrammeled natural beauty featuring rocky coastline, wind-swept pines and glistening sea. After discovering the deserted factory in the 90s, founder Johan Hellström preserved its original infrastructure and recycled local materials such as concrete, limestone and hardwood to build the hotel's 17 rooms. “The interior perfectly matches the industrial character of the buildings and the colors of the surrounding area,” observes Guenzel, who has shot for the likes of AnOther, Arena Homme Plus and The Observer. “But it still felt warm and welcoming in a minimalist ‘Swedish’ way. Much of the industrial infrastructure is still in place but not restored—the jetty with the crane, for example, felt like it was slowly disintegrating.” For those seeking complete solitude, Hellström erected Wi-Fi-free hermit cabins alongside the hotel to provide total escapism in between visits to its idyllic bakery or restaurant. “The greatest part about it is the unknown,” says Hellström. “Even if you look at the building carefully, you can't see what's on the inside, and that's very thrilling.”

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