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July 24, 2014

Katie Grand x Tim Walker

The Fashion Wizards Conjure Up a Bohemian Fairytale for LOVE Magazine

Master storyteller Tim Walker and LOVE Editor-in-Chief Katie Grand reunite for Wizard, a hyper-dreamy shoot taken from the title's latest issue. Set on shooting his “favorite Brit girls,” Walker whisked homegrown talents including Kate Moss and Edie Campbell to Eglingham Hall, the fantastical 17th-century residence in Northumberland, England, that has defined much of his career. “Tim wanted to shoot a mystical fairy tale, and I never usually like wizards and all that hippy shit, but I loved the challenge of pulling in more magical clothing––especially from the great William Vintage,” says Grand, who unearthed the two-tone Halston dress as seen on Jean Campbell. New to the LOVE fold, Matilda Lowther and Jake Love also joined the cast, but it was the decade-plus teaming of Walker and Ms Moss that ultimately defined the made-in-Britain atmosphere on set. “They were sat in the forest having a cup of tea and a chat, and we were all like, ‘Tim, the light's going, Tim the light's going,’ but they were much more bothered about the tea,” adds Grand. Fresh from a road-trip across Utah and Arizona after closing issue 12, the super-stylist sat down with NOWNESS to talk Snow White, wishes and to-do lists.

When did you first meet Tim? 
Katie Grand:
We first worked together on Dazed & Confused about a million years ago. I think the story was called Poor Cow, and Grace Cobb styled it. I had been at college with Grace and she introduced us. They shot a cow on the M40, I think.

If you could describe shooting with him in emojis, what would they be? 
I don’t have emojis on my computer, but if I did there would be hearts and wizard hats, and perhaps the camels––they always make me smile, especially to accompany a picture when someone is showing a lot of cleavage.

Who else’s vintage collection do you admire? 
Stephen Philip at Rellik; he's always such a joy. Others’ I've admired are Azzedine Alaïa's, Miuccia Prada’s and Manuela Pavesi’s.

What do you most identify with in fairytales?
I like how sinister they are with such a dark overtone. Something bad always happens and someone always has a good cackle about it. Jean Campbell would be Goldilocks and Matilda’s got beautiful white skin, so she’d be Snow White.

What's on your to-do list?
KG: Answer these questions; get back to Irene at Marc Jacobs about the SS15 shoe fitting; get back to Condé Nast about our advertising sites for the new issue; look at the new Italian Vogue; send Hannah McGibbon a note to thank her for sending her excellent magazine; pick up a new cape from Prada. I think that's it today––not particularly stressful. 

Finally, one wish?
My rabbit Clara to come back (she died this week).

LOVE 12 Autumn/Winter 2014 is out Monday 28 July. 

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Katsuya Kamo: Head First 

Reflecting on the Junya Watanabe Collaborator's Non-Conformist Hairstyling and Millinery 

The surrealistic head-top assemblages of Katsuya Kamo are paid homage to by 100 Headpieces, a new exhibition and accompanying book from Tokyo’s Lafforet Museum. The show displays many of his most prominent designs for the first time, and this curated collation showcases haute-couture work and magazine editorials alongside personal polaroids and intimate collages. Kamo entered fashion working with Junya Watanabe at Comme des Garçons in 1996—he created feathered structures for the Japanese designer in his own Spring 2012 show— going on to work on campaigns for Fendi, Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela, alongside commissions for Paris and Italian Vogue, The New York Times and Dazed & Confused. “Collaborating with Mr. Kamo is an incredible experience,” says Nicola Formichetti, whose work with the visionary milliner can be seen in today’s striking images. “I think of him as an artist or head sculptor. It’s so inspiring seeing him work, creating beautiful, magical pieces.”

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Adam Selman: Gorgeous!

Rihanna’s Designer is Joined by Amy Sedaris for a Sideways Look at His Fashion Week Debut

A gaggle of models find themselves upstaged by comedian Amy Sedaris in this mockumentary filmed at Adam Selman’s debut fashion show at New York Fashion Week, Spring-Summer 2014. Selman enlisted his close friend, the Letterman regular and star of cult comedy Strangers with Candy, to play an in-your-face photographer, spoofing the traditional casting call. “Amy played that character from The Eyes of Laura Mars,” says Selman, also who also referenced the opening scene of Lipstick as further fodder for the antics. “I just wanted her out there taking pictures and doing her thing. But it was so great because her camera wasn’t even turned on.” No stranger to spectacle, Selman created stage outfits for Britney Spears, Michael Jackson and the Scissor Sisters before working with Rihanna and her stylist Mel Ottenberg. His foray into fashion via his eponymous line is a mash-up of boudoir sexy and streetwise inspired in part by retro Francesco Scavullo Cosmopolitan covers, and was designed with RiRi in mind. “It’s hard for me not to imagine her wearing these things because we work so closely together. We’re very simpatico in inspiration and design right now,” he explains. Meanwhile, his pal Sedaris, who frequently turns up on television in bespoke Selman, keeps his spirits high, so to speak. “The first week after knowing him I ordered 100 dress labels with his name on it,” she muses. “I knew I was going to ask him to make me dresses for the rest of my life.”

How did you and Amy Sedaris meet?
Adam Selman:
We met on a Dolly Parton video shoot in Dollywood. I was dressing all the extras, including Amy, for the video. We instantly hit it off, while walking to the Chick-fil-A. After we came back to New York, I joined her craft club—we were called the Frayed Knots. It was really an excuse to get together and smoke pot. We then decided to do a crafts book, Simple Times: Crafts for Poor People.

What have you learned from working so closely with Rihanna?
I think the best thing is to not become too emotionally attached to clothes. Especially with someone like Rihanna, who eats clothes. She does a lot of looks so it’s good to constantly be pushing.  

Have you always been interested in fashion, even as a child?
We grew up on a ranch in Texas, close to Waco, and I come from a very religious background. We didn’t have Vogue lying around. I would have to sneak it out of the doctor’s office. My mom taught me how to sew. My dad was a carpenter, which is actually very similar to a pattern maker. It was a very hands-on childhood, very creative. When I finally moved to New York I was like, “Ohhh, Versace.”

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