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September 13, 2014

Inez & Vinoodh: Transformers

The Photography Duo Map their Visual History for Aperture Magazine

Husband-and-wife photographers Inez & Vinoodh have lent their shape-shifting vision to the fashion world’s leading editors at Vogue, W and Self Service. After over 25 years of service, the image-makers have translated their fluency by guest-editing the fall issue of photography institution, Aperture. “I was interested in the history of fashion photography,” says editor Michael Famighetti of handing over the reigns to the Dutch couple for the quarterly’s first fashion issue in 20 years. “And Inez & Vinoodh’s practice is always reflecting on the medium of photography itself.” Today’s retrospective portfolio taken from the fall edition distils the duo’s pioneering use of digital effects to play hypnotic visual tricks on the viewer. Giving a rare glimpse into their kinetic psyche, the photographers embark in a dialogue on old references—Richard Hamilton's “Fashion-Plate” made the cover—and new talents like the street photographer Daniel Arnold.

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Spotlight

Edie Campbell: In the Arena

The British Model and Rising Horsewoman Takes On the World of Eventing

With her new raven-hued cut, model-of-the-moment Edie Campbell reveals her principal off-runway passion in this short film by director Linda Brownlee. Horsey life wasn’t always an obvious direction for the London-born and raised model, who graduated with a first class degree in History of Art at London’s Courtauld Institute of Art before scooping Model-of-the-Year at the British Fashion Awards. But while spending weekends in the countryside as a child Campbell caught the bug, joined the Pony Club and began to focus on eventing, the sport that requires horse and rider to tackle the three separate disciplines of dressage, cross-country and show jumping. Although the Viva London-represented 23-year-old has tried her hand at other equestrian sports, most notably triumphing in the Charity Ladies’ race at Goodwood in 2011, eventing is where her heart lies. She keeps two horses, Dolly and the aptly named Armani, in Warwickshire and commutes out of London to train. “I don’t expect to win,” she says on balancing her competing life with a career in front of the camera, which includes campaigns for Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen, as well as appearing on the cover of British, German and Italian Vogue. “In this sport, even in the lower levels, you are competing against people on Olympic teams. Standards are high, so I compete against myself and try to improve each time I go out.”

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Spotlight

Haider Ackermann’s Prodigal Return

On the Day of His Paris Fashion Week Show, the Colombia-Born Draper Takes Us Back to His Roots

An inky Andean swell rises behind Medellín, Colombia, as model and muse Saskia de Brauw embarks on a languid walk along the country’s second-largest city in Steps Away, a short film celebrating Haider Ackermann. Director Vincent van de Wijngaard captured the fashion designer’s first return to his birthplace since he left Colombia with his adoptive parents as an infant, for a 10-year retrospective to mark the 25th anniversary of Inexmoda, the country’s fashion and textile showcase. Intensified by a full moon, the evocative show, which took over a year to prepare, spanned 38 looks atop the EPM building in downtown Medellín. “I think he realized that he felt a stronger connection to Colombia than he might have thought,” says Van de Wijngaard, who lent his voiceover to the film alongside de Brauw and Ackermann. The son of a cartographer, the Paris-based designer moved between Algeria, Ethiopia, Chad, the Netherlands, and Belgium, where he briefly attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Since creating his eponymous label in 2001, Ackermann’s combination of asymmetric cuts and sensuous romanticism have made him a cult favorite with the likes of Tilda Swinton and Penélope Cruz. Peppering the film with Ackermann’s warm color palette, Van de Wijngaard included portraits of a child soldier, a series which first drew him to the city’s volatile outskirts six years ago. “It’s a kind of street-photographer approach,” adds the filmmaker, who has shot for GQ Style, Interview and Vogue Hommes International. “We did not plan anything together. In fact, it was all incidental.”

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