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July 24, 2014

Katie Grand x Tim Walker

The Fashion Wizards Conjure Up a Bohemian Fairytale for LOVE Magazine

Master storyteller Tim Walker and LOVE Editor-in-Chief Katie Grand reunite for Wizard, a hyper-dreamy shoot taken from the title's latest issue. Set on shooting his “favorite Brit girls,” Walker whisked homegrown talents including Kate Moss and Edie Campbell to Eglingham Hall, the fantastical 17th-century residence in Northumberland, England, that has defined much of his career. “Tim wanted to shoot a mystical fairy tale, and I never usually like wizards and all that hippy shit, but I loved the challenge of pulling in more magical clothing––especially from the great William Vintage,” says Grand, who unearthed the two-tone Halston dress as seen on Jean Campbell. New to the LOVE fold, Matilda Lowther and Jake Love also joined the cast, but it was the decade-plus teaming of Walker and Ms Moss that ultimately defined the made-in-Britain atmosphere on set. “They were sat in the forest having a cup of tea and a chat, and we were all like, ‘Tim, the light's going, Tim the light's going,’ but they were much more bothered about the tea,” adds Grand. Fresh from a road-trip across Utah and Arizona after closing issue 12, the super-stylist sat down with NOWNESS to talk Snow White, wishes and to-do lists.

When did you first meet Tim? 
Katie Grand:
We first worked together on Dazed & Confused about a million years ago. I think the story was called Poor Cow, and Grace Cobb styled it. I had been at college with Grace and she introduced us. They shot a cow on the M40, I think.

If you could describe shooting with him in emojis, what would they be? 
I don’t have emojis on my computer, but if I did there would be hearts and wizard hats, and perhaps the camels––they always make me smile, especially to accompany a picture when someone is showing a lot of cleavage.

Who else’s vintage collection do you admire? 
Stephen Philip at Rellik; he's always such a joy. Others’ I've admired are Azzedine Alaïa's, Miuccia Prada’s and Manuela Pavesi’s.

What do you most identify with in fairytales?
I like how sinister they are with such a dark overtone. Something bad always happens and someone always has a good cackle about it. Jean Campbell would be Goldilocks and Matilda’s got beautiful white skin, so she’d be Snow White.

What's on your to-do list?
KG: Answer these questions; get back to Irene at Marc Jacobs about the SS15 shoe fitting; get back to Condé Nast about our advertising sites for the new issue; look at the new Italian Vogue; send Hannah McGibbon a note to thank her for sending her excellent magazine; pick up a new cape from Prada. I think that's it today––not particularly stressful. 

Finally, one wish?
My rabbit Clara to come back (she died this week).

LOVE 12 Autumn/Winter 2014 is out Monday 28 July. 

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Antonio Lopez: Off-Duty Disco

Karl Lagerfeld, Grace Jones and Andy Warhol Star in the Fashion Illustrator’s Personal Photo Collection

Antonio Lopez’s candid images of his camped-up entourage basking in St. Tropez and Studio 54-era New York capture the headiness of the 1970s. Born in Puerto Rico and raised in the Bronx, the fashion illustrator is better known for his swirling, Pop Art-infused sketches and psychedelic personality portraits. These rarely seen Instamatic photographs featuring Karl Lagerfeld, Andy Warhol and Anna Piaggi were shot during Lopez’s downtime from assignments for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and The New York Times, and coincide with an exhibition of Lopez's work from online gallery East of Mayfair, on show at the Roland Mouret concept store in London. “The photographs actually look like his drawings,” says curator Janina Joffe. “They have the same movements and composition.” While working in Paris with art director Juan Ramos, Lopez notably discovered Jerry Hall and Tina Chow. “I think what people liked about Antonio is his character, his lifestyle and vivacity,” says Joffe of the industry iconoclast, who would have turned 70 this year. “It was a scene but it wasn’t sceney the way it is now. They wanted to be out there, outrageous and very fun—and that’s what you can tell with this project.”

Antonio Lopez runs at East of Mayfair and Roland Mouret, London, from September 14 to October 20 2013.

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Haider Ackermann’s Prodigal Return

On the Day of His Paris Fashion Week Show, the Colombia-Born Draper Takes Us Back to His Roots

An inky Andean swell rises behind Medellín, Colombia, as model and muse Saskia de Brauw embarks on a languid walk along the country’s second-largest city in Steps Away, a short film celebrating Haider Ackermann. Director Vincent van de Wijngaard captured the fashion designer’s first return to his birthplace since he left Colombia with his adoptive parents as an infant, for a 10-year retrospective to mark the 25th anniversary of Inexmoda, the country’s fashion and textile showcase. Intensified by a full moon, the evocative show, which took over a year to prepare, spanned 38 looks atop the EPM building in downtown Medellín. “I think he realized that he felt a stronger connection to Colombia than he might have thought,” says Van de Wijngaard, who lent his voiceover to the film alongside de Brauw and Ackermann. The son of a cartographer, the Paris-based designer moved between Algeria, Ethiopia, Chad, the Netherlands, and Belgium, where he briefly attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Since creating his eponymous label in 2001, Ackermann’s combination of asymmetric cuts and sensuous romanticism have made him a cult favorite with the likes of Tilda Swinton and Penélope Cruz. Peppering the film with Ackermann’s warm color palette, Van de Wijngaard included portraits of a child soldier, a series which first drew him to the city’s volatile outskirts six years ago. “It’s a kind of street-photographer approach,” adds the filmmaker, who has shot for GQ Style, Interview and Vogue Hommes International. “We did not plan anything together. In fact, it was all incidental.”

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