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September 13, 2014

Inez & Vinoodh: Transformers

The Photography Duo Map their Visual History for Aperture Magazine

Husband-and-wife photographers Inez & Vinoodh have lent their shape-shifting vision to the fashion world’s leading editors at Vogue, W and Self Service. After over 25 years of service, the image-makers have translated their fluency by guest-editing the fall issue of photography institution, Aperture. “I was interested in the history of fashion photography,” says editor Michael Famighetti of handing over the reigns to the Dutch couple for the quarterly’s first fashion issue in 20 years. “And Inez & Vinoodh’s practice is always reflecting on the medium of photography itself.” Today’s retrospective portfolio taken from the fall edition distils the duo’s pioneering use of digital effects to play hypnotic visual tricks on the viewer. Giving a rare glimpse into their kinetic psyche, the photographers embark in a dialogue on old references—Richard Hamilton's “Fashion-Plate” made the cover—and new talents like the street photographer Daniel Arnold.

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Giambattista Valli: Beyond the Runway

Tracing the Rise of Fashion's Incurable Romantic

“I wanted to share my method with the women in my life,” says Giambattista Valli, the Roman designer whose intricate couture techniques have found a Hollywood following in Diane Kruger, Natalie Portman and Julianne Moore. Documenting the journey from concept to runway, Valli has collected photographs, mood boards and sketches of eight years’ work in a 400-page book, previewed here. The designer behind the eponymous ready-to-wear and couture labels made his Paris debut in 2005, taking inspiration from Louise Bourgeois, red-tipped flowers and, for his recent Paris Fashion Week show, Pier Paolo Pasolini. “All the people in the book come from specific chapters in my career,” explains Valli of the Rizzoli-published title, spliced with essays from muses including Francesco Clemente, Franca Sozzani and Lee Radziwill, and dedicated to his collaborator, the Italian architect and jeweler Luigi Scialanga. “It was great to do a work-in-progress book; one that has no start, and almost no end.”

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Spotlight

Grande Mesure

Berluti’s Animated Ode to Slapstick King Jacques Tati

French filmmaking duo Agnès Doolaeghe and Franck Mallez recreate Paris’ Rue de Sèvres in an homage to the late director and comic actor Jacques Tati. In today’s spirited animation for Berluti, the film presents Paris’ 6th arrondissement and the bohemian south side of the Seine, historically a haunt for artists and intellectuals. “We aimed at having a style that would be as simple and pure as possible,” says Mallez of the playful reinterpretation, told through Tati’s humorous outlook on masculine elegance that mirrors Berluti’s savoir faire: “Silhouettes, Paris and grande mesure.” The Parisian luxury menswear brand is breathing new life into Tati’s universe: To mark the opening of its boutique store, the shop’s awnings bear the work of illustrator Sempé, collaborator on Tati’s original animated films; Berluti is also helping in the restoration of the star’s acting debut, Soigne ton Gauche. “What characterized his work is the attention to detail in each frame, costume and color,” says Mallez. “He had a sense of humor and tenderness. Everything was done with a craftsman’s approach.”

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