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July 24, 2014

Katie Grand x Tim Walker

The Fashion Wizards Conjure Up a Bohemian Fairytale for LOVE Magazine

Master storyteller Tim Walker and LOVE Editor-in-Chief Katie Grand reunite for Wizard, a hyper-dreamy shoot taken from the title's latest issue. Set on shooting his “favorite Brit girls,” Walker whisked homegrown talents including Kate Moss and Edie Campbell to Eglingham Hall, the fantastical 17th-century residence in Northumberland, England, that has defined much of his career. “Tim wanted to shoot a mystical fairy tale, and I never usually like wizards and all that hippy shit, but I loved the challenge of pulling in more magical clothing––especially from the great William Vintage,” says Grand, who unearthed the two-tone Halston dress as seen on Jean Campbell. New to the LOVE fold, Matilda Lowther and Jake Love also joined the cast, but it was the decade-plus teaming of Walker and Ms Moss that ultimately defined the made-in-Britain atmosphere on set. “They were sat in the forest having a cup of tea and a chat, and we were all like, ‘Tim, the light's going, Tim the light's going,’ but they were much more bothered about the tea,” adds Grand. Fresh from a road-trip across Utah and Arizona after closing issue 12, the super-stylist sat down with NOWNESS to talk Snow White, wishes and to-do lists.

When did you first meet Tim? 
Katie Grand:
We first worked together on Dazed & Confused about a million years ago. I think the story was called Poor Cow, and Grace Cobb styled it. I had been at college with Grace and she introduced us. They shot a cow on the M40, I think.

If you could describe shooting with him in emojis, what would they be? 
KG:
I don’t have emojis on my computer, but if I did there would be hearts and wizard hats, and perhaps the camels––they always make me smile, especially to accompany a picture when someone is showing a lot of cleavage.

Who else’s vintage collection do you admire? 
KG:
Stephen Philip at Rellik; he's always such a joy. Others’ I've admired are Azzedine Alaïa's, Miuccia Prada’s and Manuela Pavesi’s.

What do you most identify with in fairytales?
KG:
I like how sinister they are with such a dark overtone. Something bad always happens and someone always has a good cackle about it. Jean Campbell would be Goldilocks and Matilda’s got beautiful white skin, so she’d be Snow White.

What's on your to-do list?
KG: Answer these questions; get back to Irene at Marc Jacobs about the SS15 shoe fitting; get back to Condé Nast about our advertising sites for the new issue; look at the new Italian Vogue; send Hannah McGibbon a note to thank her for sending her excellent magazine; pick up a new cape from Prada. I think that's it today––not particularly stressful. 

Finally, one wish?
KG:
My rabbit Clara to come back (she died this week).

LOVE 12 Autumn/Winter 2014 is out Monday 28 July. 

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No Sour Meadows

A Private Tour of Beatrix Ost and Ludwig Kuttner's Avant-Garde Country Paradise

Stretching across 500 acres of Charlottesville, Virginia, is Estouteville, a 19th century Edwardian ranch and home to arts patrons and textile entrepreneurs Beatrix Ost and Ludwig Kuttner. An artist, writer and theater producer, the German-born Ost, together with her philanthropist partner Kuttner, discovered the idyllic estate in 1982, when she swung a pendulum over a map of the East Coast which led her to Albemarle County. “There are endless treehouses, sculptures, and art pieces made by other people on the property,” says today's filmmaker Columbine Goldsmith. “They live a life that is very community-based and focused on encouraging the talents of the people around them.” Ost’s idiosyncratic personal style and snow white, purple-tinted hair have earned her a cover of the New York Times Magazine and editorials for Harper’s Bazaar, while Kuttner is the unlikely gourmand, using the grand scale of their private playground to grow local produce. “We really followed them around on what is more or less a normal day,” adds Goldsmith, who was joined by the couple’s granddaughter, Eva, as the family explored the nearby lily pond, with its very own resident snake. “Every part of the farm is a seamless fusion of wild eccentricity and homely life.” 

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Spotlight

Giambattista Valli: Beyond the Runway

Tracing the Rise of Fashion's Incurable Romantic

“I wanted to share my method with the women in my life,” says Giambattista Valli, the Roman designer whose intricate couture techniques have found a Hollywood following in Diane Kruger, Natalie Portman and Julianne Moore. Documenting the journey from concept to runway, Valli has collected photographs, mood boards and sketches of eight years’ work in a 400-page book, previewed here. The designer behind the eponymous ready-to-wear and couture labels made his Paris debut in 2005, taking inspiration from Louise Bourgeois, red-tipped flowers and, for his recent Paris Fashion Week show, Pier Paolo Pasolini. “All the people in the book come from specific chapters in my career,” explains Valli of the Rizzoli-published title, spliced with essays from muses including Francesco Clemente, Franca Sozzani and Lee Radziwill, and dedicated to his collaborator, the Italian architect and jeweler Luigi Scialanga. “It was great to do a work-in-progress book; one that has no start, and almost no end.”

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