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May 16, 2013

Deerhunter x Proenza Schouler: Monomania

Band Members Become the Unlikely Faces of the Ever-Current New York Womenswear Line

Indie rocker androgyny finds a kindred spirit in women's ready-to-wear courtesy of Proenza Schouler in this series of photographs featuring Deerhunter, accompanied by an eponymous track taken from the recently released album Monomania. The unlikely collaboration was born from mutual admiration between Bradford Cox, the provocative lead singer of the psychedelic noise-rock band, and the New York fashion label’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. “Bradford had all these themes and ideas he was playing with during the recording of the album. He was obsessed with primitive and African art, fur and animal prints,” explains photographer Robert Semmer, who is working with the Atlanta-born band on a bigger visual project, including a film and music video around the release of this latest album. “Bradford and the drummer Moses were already huge fans of Proenza Schouler and when they saw the Autumn/Winter 2013 show they freaked out because it was exactly the same vibe that they were obsessing over.” NOWNESS caught up with the designers to discover more about this brand new alliance.

What makes Deerhunter the perfect Proenza muse?
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez: Bradford is fiercely driven to explore his craft and is possessed by it, something we find incredibly intoxicating and inspiring. It makes us want to push harder, to think bigger.

Were you surprised to hear that the band are big fans of Proenza Schouler A/W13?
JM and LH: It was definitely unexpected and funny since it’s a women’s fashion brand.

How did your collaboration come about?
JM and LH: We went to a performance they gave at MoMA PS1 in Queens a few weeks before our fall runway show. Afterwards we went backstage to meet Bradford; he mentioned that he and the band were fans of Proenza Schouler and that it might be interesting to work on something together. We invited them to the show in February and the next day they called us up and asked us to dress them for their album cover shoot.

Is it important to connect with interesting bands?
JM and LH: We’ve been listening to both Deerhunter and Atlas Sound [Cox’s solo project] on repeat. Music is really important to us—it formulates ideas when we’re drawing and working in the studio. We’re constantly looking for new music online and going off on tangents searching for things. 

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Antonio Lopez: Disco Fashion

The Warholian Illustrator’s Flamboyant Life and Works Celebrated in New Show

From charcoal sketches of the swinging 60s, to sensuous watercolor illustrations and personality portraits, today’s series remembers New York’s irreverent wild child Antonio Lopez. A vibrant figure among Studio 54 circles, the Puerto Rican-born Bronx-raised Lopez first garnered attention with camped-up photographs of emerging artists and screen sirens including Jerry Hall, Grace Jones and Jessica Lange. Cultivating a surrealist, free-flowing drawing style, Lopez began making illustrations for master-couturist Charles James and advertising campaigns that appeared in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and The New York Times displaying vivid silhouettes, Pop Art references and a bold eroticism. Antonio’s World just opened at Suzanne Geiss Company gallery in New York, presenting three decades of the iconoclast’s fine art and photography and the first comprehensive survey of his work. “I have been a fan of Antonio's work since I was a teenager and followed fashion," explains Geiss. “He drew freely from contemporary culture and art history, but at the same time forged a unique body of work.” A forthcoming monograph from Rizzoli, Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex, and Disco, featuring unfinished sketches, Instamatic photos and contributions from close friend Bill Cunningham, and a MAC cosmetics collection paying homage to Lopez’s salacious use of color, signal the artist’s continuing relevance today. 

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Spotlight

Electric Signature

Neon Rainbows Evoke the Iconic Geometry of Tod’s Signature Collection

A pulsing grid of fluorescent lighting replaces imprinted leather in fashion filmmaker Bart Hess’s new short for Italian luxury leather label Tod’s. Taking the brand’s iconic circles-and-diamonds pattern as inspiration, the maverick Dutch director created a futuristic neon cityscape to explore the interplay of light on material. “I wanted to see the pattern reflected in all kinds of materials, because it can tell you a lot about surface and quality,” explains Hess. Shooting in Eindhoven’s cutting-edge Temporary Arts Centre, Hess crafted an installation of 81 light tubes to illuminate the exclusive next-season pieces by the cult leather maker. “In the film we show the light cycle of a day, from sunrise to sunset. At the moment when the girl decides to go to the pool a blackout takes place,” he elaborates. “When the lights turn back on there has been an upgrade and now everything is in multicolor. The city comes alive.” Best known for the otherworldly slime outfits he created for Lady Gaga, Hess has made sculptural costumes for the likes of American Vogue and AnOther Magazine, Parisian art center Palais de Tokyo, and photographer Nick Knight, as well as collaborating on textiles with fashion designers such as Walter Van Beirendonck, Iris van Herpen, and Ann-Sofie Back.

STATS FROM ON SET 

Location
Temporary Art Centre in Eindhoven, Netherlands.

Shoot duration
Two days.

Cast
Seventeen people: director, model, cinematographer, four people for hair and makeup, two people for styling, and eight set assistants.

Pool water temperature
Approximately 68°F.

Time spent in water by model
Twenty minutes.

Number of plugs that overheated
Five.

Number of mirrors on set
Eighteen.

Total area of mirror surface
581.3 square feet.

Number of light tubes used
Eighty-one.

Length of each tube
23.6 inches.

Total length of light tubes
159.3 feet.

Total length of electricity cable on set
656.2 feet.

Electricity bill
Yet to be charged...

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